View from the Castle Wall, Heidelberg, 8/02/2012

Ecomusée Textile, Wesserling, 5/02/2012:

The view from the top of the drying tower also gave a perfect view of the former textile workshops below. The textile plant finally closed for good in 1996 and the workshops are now rented out to local artisans and small business owners in order to keep the economy in the Wesserling valley alive.

Chateau Haut-Koenigsbourg, 4/02/2012:

After exploring Sélestat, we got back on the bus and headed up the mountain to visit a “fake” medieval castle. Chateau Haut-Koenigsbourg was originally built in the 12th century but was burned to the ground during the 30 Years War in 1633. The castle was restored in 1900 to its previous glory to showcase German power in Alsace.

Now, it feels very much like an amusement park ride. The castle was reconstructed as an image of German strength; it was never intended to be a residence. The castle has a clear walking route for tourists to see all of the sites, both old and new. 

Natzwiller-Struthof, 3/02/2012:

At the bottom of the hill, we went inside the prison and the crematorium. By this time, I could no longer feel my toes and thought almost constantly about the cold. It really brought it home that simply being in the camp was torture, without even taking into account the constant harassment by the guards and lack of food.

The first photograph shows the outside of the crematorium, distinctly marked by its tall chimney. Natzweiller-Struthof was the smallest central concentration camp and thus only had one oven. Larger camps, like Auschwitz, which I will visit in May, had four crematoria, each with multiple ovens. Most disturbingly, at least for me, was the fact that the oven also warmed the water for the showers, where the prisoners were subject to the guards’ tricks: the water was either too hot or too cold.

The second photograph shows the inside of the crematorium and the bouquet that we brought in remembrance of those who died. I took this picture just as I was leaving the building. When I first entered, I immediately stood to myself and recited the Mourner’s Kaddish as a way of honoring and remembering all those who perished, regardless of religion. I also tried (mostly successfully) not to cry.

The final photograph is of the gas chamber a short distance from the main camp. It is one of the only preserved gas chambers and was also the site of many human experiments. Most disturbingly, the building across the street (not pictured) is a hotel. It was a hotel before the war, used as lodging for the Nazi officers, and then, eventually, converted back to a hotel. I can’t imagine anyone wanting to stay there after learning its history.

The other thing that continues to strike me throughout my time in Germany is the after affects of World War II. In the United States, or at least, in my school districts, we learned about World War II was a terrible thing that we defeated and then it was over. In Germany (and all of Europe), this was not the case. Yes, the war was done, but the ripples extended into almost every part of society.

The doctors who experimented on prisoners at Natzweiller-Struthof were imprisoned, but only until 1955, when Germany joined NATO. They were then released and continued to practice medicine (in peace) until they died in the early 1970s. 

Many (but not all) of the high-ranking Nazi officials were put on trial and imprisoned, but most low-ranking members, including the prison guards, went back to their everyday lives and their families. It was shocking to me that so many people who personally committed such terrible acts could simply walk free, even though I know that it is not physically possible to imprison everyone who participated.

As you can see, I have not finished processing my experience visiting Natzweiller-Struthof. I have not decided how I feel about certain aspects of the camp and the war (and its aftermath). I may continue to write on this topic in the future, even after we have moved onto other activities, since it is still very much relevant to everyday life in Germany and my life as a Jew.

Natzwiller-Struthof, 3/02/2012:

Nowadays, Natzwiller-Struthof is a museum in remembrance of those who perished here, mainly political protesters. It is normally closed in the winter months, since the weather is too extreme to make upkeep of the camp for visitors reasonable. And to think, during the war, the prisoners were lucky to have thin pajamas and shoes to wear. We were told that during the winter, the death rate was 10% a month, just from the cold.

The first photograph shows the view from inside the camp to the outer gate. Immediately after entering the camp, I wanted to leave again. I did not like being enclosed by barbed wire and guard towers, even though they were unstaffed. 

The second photograph shows the view down the hill to the prison (where punished prisoners were held) and the crematorium. The sheds where the prisoners were held burned down, since they were only made of wood, but the prison and crematorium were made of stone and are original. The noose was where the guards would publicly execute prisoners (after torturing them in the prison to ensure they would not try to instill hope in others by shouting “Viva la France!” or something similar).

Our guide also told us the the sheer slope of the hill was dangerous to the prisoners. It got extremely slippery in the winter (we walked down the cleared road instead of attempting the stairs) and prisoners could be punished for walking too slowly or falling.